Zadie Jumpsuit in Silk Noil
When Indie Pattern Designer, Paper Theory announced their new jumpsuit pattern, The Zadie Jumpsuit I instantly knew it was going to be a popular favorite within the sewist community and had to put it on top of the priority make list! As exciting as new patterns and pattern releases are, I usually don’t partake and hold off a month or so to see if I really need it in my wardrobe, or if its something practical for my lifestyle. I didn’t hesitate with the Zadie Jumpsuit, mainly due to the fact that I only have one other jumpsuit and have been wanting to make another. I also have been looking for a simple style jumpsuit that includes sleeves ( with a long sleeve option) no elastic, no zips, no buttons, no fuss. The wrap belt making it a huge win, and those deep pockets! Defiantly practical for my busy mom lifestyle too.
Now what fabric is a girl too choose? Luckily for me a brand new Canadian based fabric retailer, Cutters and Cloth Textile Co approached me to do a collaboration. Kyla the owner , graciously sent enough silk noil fabric for the Zadie ! I can not express how much I love silk noil. Not only is it a sustainable fabric, but it is also light weight and breathable, perfect for hot summer days approaching. If you are not familiar with silk noil or also known as raw silk, it is the short fiber left over from combing wool or spinning silk. It has a nubby texture with little stretch on the grain, and mid weight in drape. I encourage you to try working with it, providing you are able, it sews like a dream and the results are always spectacular. I chose the color sky but there are plenty of other drool worthy colors in Kyla’s shop! Cutters and Cloth is kindly offering YOU a chance to win $50 CAD gift card to their shop, where you can find gorgeous raw silk , linens and natural knit fabrics. Find us both on Instagram for more details and don’t forget to subscribe to my blog and Cutters and Cloth newsletter for extra entries to win.!
I will discuss with you:
-The pattern and construction
-Mods and fit
- Body consciousness
Overall this was a fairly beginner friendly and fast sew. I cut a straight size 10 based off my measurements. The pattern pieces are simple and easy to cut out, no darts but pleat markings instead, which I always find easier and more satisfying to make. I cut my back piece on the fold opposite as instructed making sure to remove the seam allowance, I did this only because my back pattern piece ended up laying nicely on the fold. I did have to play tettris a bit to have enough space to cut my neckline piece on the bias, we all know cutting on the bias takes up alot of space on the fabric! But I was able to make it work on my shorter width noil.
I also chose to overlock all my edges before sewing them together, that way I could press them open. Sewing the pleats in place constructing the bodice was very straight forward, just be sure to create your belt hole slit on the RIGHT side as you would wear it, I did this backward and had to fix it! I loved the pocket bag. It took me a minute to figure out what angle to stitch to the pants, but thank god for pictures in the instructions. I opted to use french seams on the pocket bag giving it a nice clean look. Attaching the bodice to the legs, make sure all your pleats line up on the waist because its noticeable later if they don’t.
The bodice and pant leg construction moved quickly and effortlessly. The waistband straps were easy to turn out with a turn tool like this one, creating the bias for the neckline no problem. Attaching the bias to bodice went smooth, but I ended up missing the back piece and had to create a second row of stitches, not noticeable so not a big deal. Next time I will self draft a facing based off the bodice pattern pieces. I think it would be easier to attach and give more structure to the bodice resulting in a crisp less floppy front. Especially if interfaced. I don’t particularly like the way the bias meets the opening of the legs, maybe I stitched it incorrectly, but the bias rolls underneath resulting in a poof right above the pubis. But really not that big of a deal and unnoticeable.
I love how comfortable the jumpsuit is and how the wrap defines the waistline. Its so casual chic I just feel amazing in it! I even wore it with socks and vans, no shame!! . I do wish I would have lengthened the legs, as I prefer a less cropped leg, but this will do nicely for summer! I am currently enjoying the sunshine, anxiously awaiting summers arrival. Looking forward to a hair cut and color with a new pair of shoes, but at least I have a beautiful new jumpsuit in my memade wardrobe and I plan on making a couple more!
What about you? Do you like wearing jumpsuits? What type of fabric would you choose to make the Zadie with and what kind of shoes would you pair? I would love to hear your thoughts!
Pattern- Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory