How to Create a Facing for the Zadie Jumpsuit or Dress- Mini Tutorial

How to Create a Facing for the Zadie Jumpsuit or Dress- Mini Tutorial

Mini Tutorial

**Disclaimer All thoughts are my own and not endorsed by Paper Theory. I can not guarantee your facing will turn out or the measurements will be precise for your jumpsuit or dress. I only made the facing for the dress portion and can not guarantee the jumpsuit facing will work. I suggest creating a muslin first! These are my own experiences that I am sharing with you! Feel free to add or change anything to your liking.

I am sharing with you a simple way to create your own facing pattern pieces for the Zadie Jumpsuit/Dress. As stated above I only made the facing for the dress not the jumpsuit. Some steps will need to be modified for the jumpsuit and I can not guarantee it will work, because I haven’t tired it! However, I added that step in and you can give it a try for your self. I will be showing you only how to create the facing pattern pieces, and will only briefly discus how to attach it to the bodice.

The facing gives the garment a different look than the bias binding, I also think it provides a little more structure because I fused mine with mid weight interfacing. There is no right or wrong way, its simply out of preference. Sometimes I dislike facing because it flops around inside the garment, unless hand stitched in place or top stitched down completely. I went ahead and top stitched mine down on the dress, and like how it looks- and absolutely no flopping around! Lets get started!

You will need:

- The Zadie jumpsuit Front Body and Back Body Pattern Pieces ( the front leg piece for the jumpsuit version) You can purchase the pattern at Paper Theory

-Tracing Paper

- Straight edge ruler, and french curve ruler ( not necessary it helps to connect your lines)

-Pen , pencil or writing tool of choice to create your lines .

- Scissors

-Fabric I purchased 3 yards of linen burnt Sienna from Fashion Fabrics Club

Step 1.  Lay your tracing paper over your front body piece, using the edge of the pattern as your guide. Use paper weights so your pattern wont slip around. I went ahead and measured 2.5 “ from the pattern edge. Keep in mind the 1 cm ( little less than .5” ) is included in the pattern seam allowance, where your bias binding would have covered, I gave myself an extra .5 to cover that seam allowance. If you want a thinner facing or thicker you can adjust it accordingly.

Step 1. Lay your tracing paper over your front body piece, using the edge of the pattern as your guide. Use paper weights so your pattern wont slip around. I went ahead and measured 2.5 “ from the pattern edge. Keep in mind the 1 cm ( little less than .5” ) is included in the pattern seam allowance, where your bias binding would have covered, I gave myself an extra .5 to cover that seam allowance. If you want a thinner facing or thicker you can adjust it accordingly.

STEP 2-  You will then proceed to make little marks of 2.5 “ away from the pattern edge all the way down the curve, using your ruler and pattern edge as your guide.

STEP 2- You will then proceed to make little marks of 2.5 “ away from the pattern edge all the way down the curve, using your ruler and pattern edge as your guide.

Just like so.. all the way down

Just like so.. all the way down

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STEP 3- After you made your increment marks go ahead and draw your graineline arrows, so you know where to place it on the fabric.

STEP 3- After you made your increment marks go ahead and draw your graineline arrows, so you know where to place it on the fabric.

STEP 4 -Use your pen or highlighter to connect the marks all the way down, being careful to make your curve, there is a little free hand connecting here, which it ok if its not perfect!

STEP 4 -Use your pen or highlighter to connect the marks all the way down, being careful to make your curve, there is a little free hand connecting here, which it ok if its not perfect!

If you are making the jumpsuit continue to read here. If you are making the dress you can skip this part and move down to step 5-  Disclaimer - I did not try this with the jumpsuit! Please test muslin first    Go ahead and connect your pants front piece to the bodice front piece, you will be doing the same thing as above marking in 2.5 “ increments down to the curve notch pointed above.

If you are making the jumpsuit continue to read here. If you are making the dress you can skip this part and move down to step 5- Disclaimer - I did not try this with the jumpsuit! Please test muslin first

Go ahead and connect your pants front piece to the bodice front piece, you will be doing the same thing as above marking in 2.5 “ increments down to the curve notch pointed above.

Connect your marks and trace the outside edge. The seam allowance is included in the pattern pieces. ( ***Go ahead and REMOVE 1 cm seam allowance from the bottom edge of the bodice and the top edge of the pant because you are joining these two pieces together )  Again some free hand line drawing is necessary, you can use your ruler to measure and double check.

Connect your marks and trace the outside edge. The seam allowance is included in the pattern pieces. ( ***Go ahead and REMOVE 1 cm seam allowance from the bottom edge of the bodice and the top edge of the pant because you are joining these two pieces together )

Again some free hand line drawing is necessary, you can use your ruler to measure and double check.

STEP 5 - Creating the back facing piece, you will do the same steps as the front facing piece. The seam allowance of 1cm is included at the shoulder seams already, and the center back piece will be sewn together ( there are 2 pieces) with 1 cm seam allowance, so we will remove 1 cm for the back neck facing. We want our facing piece to be only one piece not two, so we will cut on the fold of the fabric. Be sure to remove 1 cm seam allowance at the edge of your facing pattern and take note.

STEP 5 - Creating the back facing piece, you will do the same steps as the front facing piece. The seam allowance of 1cm is included at the shoulder seams already, and the center back piece will be sewn together ( there are 2 pieces) with 1 cm seam allowance, so we will remove 1 cm for the back neck facing. We want our facing piece to be only one piece not two, so we will cut on the fold of the fabric. Be sure to remove 1 cm seam allowance at the edge of your facing pattern and take note.

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This is what your facing pattern pieces will look like when finished! If you are making the jumpsuit, the front leg piece will be extended down, shown is the facing for the dress bodice only - The dress bodice facing will be shown only through the rest of the tutorial.

This is what your facing pattern pieces will look like when finished! If you are making the jumpsuit, the front leg piece will be extended down, shown is the facing for the dress bodice only - The dress bodice facing will be shown only through the rest of the tutorial.

STEP 6- Next you will cut out two fabric pieces for your front bodice and 2 pieces of interfacing if you wish to fuse, which i do recommend to provide that nice crisp structure we are going for. If using a solid color with no obvious right or wrong side, you can cut 2 pieces out as shown, but if you have a one directional , print , or obvious right and wrong side, be sure to cut out 2 mirrored pieces and do the same for the interfacing. ( I am using scrap fabric to show you)

STEP 6- Next you will cut out two fabric pieces for your front bodice and 2 pieces of interfacing if you wish to fuse, which i do recommend to provide that nice crisp structure we are going for. If using a solid color with no obvious right or wrong side, you can cut 2 pieces out as shown, but if you have a one directional , print , or obvious right and wrong side, be sure to cut out 2 mirrored pieces and do the same for the interfacing. ( I am using scrap fabric to show you)

Step 7- Cut one piece of fabric and one piece of interfacing on the fold of your fabric.

Step 7- Cut one piece of fabric and one piece of interfacing on the fold of your fabric.

TA DA now you have your facing pieces cut out!

TA DA now you have your facing pieces cut out!

STEP 8 - Fusing your interfacing to your fabric. They will look like this when fused with interfacing.

STEP 8 - Fusing your interfacing to your fabric. They will look like this when fused with interfacing.

STEP 9- Overlocking your outside egdes ( be sure to do this after you have interfaced, I am only showing an example of one with a darker thread so you can see and its not fused with interfacing) You can also use a mock overlock stitch ( aka zig zag) on your sewing machine, pinking sheers, or turn over twice and stitch down. I did overlock my brown linen and then turned over once and stitched down for a cleaner look. Its up to you!

STEP 9- Overlocking your outside egdes ( be sure to do this after you have interfaced, I am only showing an example of one with a darker thread so you can see and its not fused with interfacing) You can also use a mock overlock stitch ( aka zig zag) on your sewing machine, pinking sheers, or turn over twice and stitch down. I did overlock my brown linen and then turned over once and stitched down for a cleaner look. Its up to you!

Tip   when overlocking the curvy edge- be sure to clip into the corner so the facing opens up when you are serging, this helps to make the edge more straight when feeding through the machine. Again I turned mine under after serging , even if its not perfect ,its unnoticeable , as the garment will be stitched down.

Tip when overlocking the curvy edge- be sure to clip into the corner so the facing opens up when you are serging, this helps to make the edge more straight when feeding through the machine. Again I turned mine under after serging , even if its not perfect ,its unnoticeable , as the garment will be stitched down.

Sample of what it should look like at this point- forgive my wavy lines, my serger went out right after this  STEP 10- Match your right sides of the shoulders together and stitch at 1 cm seam allowance. Press open

Sample of what it should look like at this point- forgive my wavy lines, my serger went out right after this

STEP 10- Match your right sides of the shoulders together and stitch at 1 cm seam allowance. Press open

ATTACHING YOUR FACING AND SEWING TO YOUR BODICE—-   I wont go into detail, but these are the basic steps after you have constructed your bodice pieces together, and stay stiched the neckline-  DON’T FORGET TO STAY STITCH   -   IMPORTANT TAKE NOTE:    The belt will be attached on the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric when attaching the facing the same place as the instructions state, but on the RIGHT SIDE!   1. Match the bodice facing at the shoulder seams making sure they line up then pin all the way around the bodice and back- Right sides together.  2. Stitch into place using 1 cm seam allowance.   ( note your belt will be sandwiched in between the facing and the bodice on the right side of the fabric.)    3. Trim off your seam allowance  4. Understitch all the way around getting as close to the bottom curve as you can catching the seam allowance.  5. Press the bodice facing back into the inside of the garment, now the wrong sides are facing each other.  6. make sure it all lines up nicely and the belt is out of the way, you can now choose to top stitch the facing down or attach it with some hand basting at the shoulders. I did top stitch mine down with the same color of thread.  7. Give it another good press and admire your work!!

ATTACHING YOUR FACING AND SEWING TO YOUR BODICE—-

I wont go into detail, but these are the basic steps after you have constructed your bodice pieces together, and stay stiched the neckline- DON’T FORGET TO STAY STITCH

- IMPORTANT TAKE NOTE: The belt will be attached on the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric when attaching the facing the same place as the instructions state, but on the RIGHT SIDE!

1. Match the bodice facing at the shoulder seams making sure they line up then pin all the way around the bodice and back- Right sides together.

2. Stitch into place using 1 cm seam allowance. ( note your belt will be sandwiched in between the facing and the bodice on the right side of the fabric.)

3. Trim off your seam allowance

4. Understitch all the way around getting as close to the bottom curve as you can catching the seam allowance.

5. Press the bodice facing back into the inside of the garment, now the wrong sides are facing each other.

6. make sure it all lines up nicely and the belt is out of the way, you can now choose to top stitch the facing down or attach it with some hand basting at the shoulders. I did top stitch mine down with the same color of thread.

7. Give it another good press and admire your work!!

Take a couple mirrored selfies and enjoy your work!

Take a couple mirrored selfies and enjoy your work!

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